Anycubic photon first print

But the tech world has come too far, 3D printers are a thing now. They can do a lot more, for instance, create life-like objects. It becomes very expensive to source the resin even if you buy the printer. Because in the world saturated with smartphones and PCs, I finally have a new toy to play with. Basically, the whole point of me reviewing the Anycubic Photon S 3D printer is to see whether it can convince me a newbie to get into the world of 3D printing.

The build quality of the plastic casing seems to be well above average. It sheds more than a pound of weight than its metallic predecessor Anycubic Photon, although some users might still prefer the metal for a more sturdy build. As part of the refresh, the Photon S gets better Z-axis stability with dual linear rails, faster print speed, improved airflow, better touchscreen LCD, and a new user interface, among other perks over the Photon 3D printer.

There is an L-shaped door like the original Photon that opens upwards and is connected to the backside via a hinge.

The door seems fragile, though; I feared it would break while opening and closing. However, it does give you a moment of satisfaction when you close it like those satisfying videos we watch all day.

It just locks itself smoothly, and the motion is so effortless that I ended up opening and closing it for no reason. But also, I felt that smoothness seems to go away with time. To top it off, the black color white also available looks great on the simple and sleek design of the Photon S.

Unboxing this guy certainly made me feel like an amateur mad scientist. It includes gloves, face mask, smelly liquid, and some creepy looking tools inside the packaging. Initially, I ended up playing with the Photon S like a year-old, moving its print platform up and down with the help of built-in controls.

But soon, the tough part came where you need to set up and get it to work correctly. I tried to figure it out on my own. After spending about a half-hour with Photon S, I managed to put all the things in place but missed a small thing which later turned out to be an important one. It was also mentioned in the user manual that I overconfidently ignored in the beginning.

Anycubic Photon 3D Printer First Impressions & My Very First Print!

While leveling the print platform, you need to put a piece of paper below it and lower it down until you feel the resistance while pulling the paper.The goal of this guide is to give a basic primer to the folks out there who, like me, was a new to 3d printing of any kind and felt a bit of overwhelm.

When starting out with a resin 3d printer there seems like a LOT to learn. Some Resin. A file to print. All 3 of those printers include a test print on the thumb drive. Buy a printer, get some resin if needed and you can print. Unbox the printer, level it if needed scroll down to find the instruction videos on how to level the Elegoo or Anycubic.

UV light can be either in the sun, or buy a cheap UV light box or strips. You just fill the bucket with the Alcohol, put in the print, wash it up. Then let that dry a bit and put it under the UV light or out in the sun. You want to keep resin off of you and you want to not breath any fumes. My big 3 for safety are:. Get them. Not latex, nitrile. Keeps the resin off your hands. I use them all the time. I use it all the time for 3d printing and for airbrushing. I definitely advise you to do the same.

Pick some from Amazon but I had them in the house so no real recommendations here. My advice is to TRY basic prints.

Go to someplace like Thingverse. Grab a 3D file. Pick a slicer and load it up. Play with it, search YouTube for basic tutorials. Learn what I mean by supports covered below and get the basics of that. Each printer will have settings on how long to turn on the UV light, known as exposure.

If you use resin that needs more or less exposure than the printer is set for, your print might fail. Printer, a bottle of resin, mask and gloves, alcohol. Here is your shortlist:.

Anycubic Photon 3D printer review

Anycubic and eSun being among them. Pour the alcohol in, plop the completed print inside, swirl it up.

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The three printers we talk about here all include a bunch of extras like tools and software on a thumb drive. Photon, Mars, X1, other? Watch these videos for specifics but what you want to do is install the build plate and level it if necessary. Anycubic Photon Bed Leveling:.

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Elegoo Mars Bed Leveling:. This matters for a few reasons: Smell, results, how long to cure, how long of an exposure on your machine. I will talk about Elegoo Grey in this article as a baseline.Founded inAnycubic has become one of the most popular 3D printer brands in the market, with around employees based in Shenzhen, China.

anycubic photon first print

James Ouyang, co-founder of Anycubic and a Ph. D of University of Auckland said. He had a company before Anycubic providing electronic modules and 3D printer accessories for over 4 years.

But after seeing clients increasingly relying on us for key components of their DIY printers, We realized we could do it, and do it much better.

There is nothing to be afraid of. So why not make a difference. But the real world is harsh. There were so many up and downs. We cannot remember how many sleepless nights out there at the early stage.

Fortunately our work paid off. Mega became so popular in the market in a short period of time and our journey as a professional 3D printer maker officially started. We all were amazed and excited but we did not stop there. The second and third generations were launched soon after along the way. Indeed, 3D printing technologies can do a lot. But first of all we believe 3D printers should be accessible and affordable to all instead of being rocket science and beyond budget.

We believe each one of us deserves the freedom to make our ideas, creativity and imagination a reality. Anycubic is committed to being one of the best choices for freedom to make. With its advanced product portfolio and professional service, Anycubic satisfies the 3D printing requirements and improves user experience for its clients.

Close menu.Back then you could make things in plastics, resin and even glued-together sheets of laser-cut paper profiles. But there was one common factor about the machines and the services that offered them. Not only were the machines expensive usually five figures expensivebut the materials they used added to a crippling running cost, keeping them out of the reach of hobbyists.

Many of the new wave of 3D Printing enthusiasts come from the tabletop gaming community, where the draw is often the printing of box inserts, game components and scenery for wargames.

That said, although some FDM models can yield staggeringly good results at this, they rely heavily on tailored print profiles to maintain fidelity of the detail of these tiny sculptures. Fortunately the communities that support 3D Printing are some of the most supportive around, and users share the print profiles, system settings, tips and hints to help others reproduce their own successes in this field. Traditionally, resin models were created using Stereolithography apparatus SLA that used light in a variety of ways to cure each layer of a build.

This was often done with lasers for the best results, but such systems, although very accurate, were also some of the most expensive. LCD systems still use resin but without the expense of curing lasers. Instead they cure each layer of resin using a UV profile projected onto an LCD screen, rather than drawing the profile out with a laser. This is a relatively simple process: a build plate sandwiches a layer of resin between it and the transparent plastic film at the bottom of the resin vat at a user-specified layer thickness usually 0.

The screen under the vat projects its profile, cures the layer, the build plate rises, detaching the layer from the bottom of the vat, then lowers for the next layer and repeats. Very cheap.

Quick Start Guide to 3D Resin Printing With Epax X1 Anycubic Photon and Elegoo Mars

There is a trade-off in quality between laser SLA and LCD, although the latter does also give you some batch-creation pay-offs. Manual and Specifications. First seen in the Photon from Chinese firm Anycubic immediately caused a stir, with its small footprint, aggressive pricing and stunning results, and for many it remains the go-to printer for hobbyists wanting to break into resin printing. A couple of days later my printer arrived, in a relatively small box.

Whilst most FDM printers come as a kit, or at the very least require several components to be bolted together. With the latter you just feed the end of your filament into the print head and away you go. There might be a little bit of a smell as the filament softens, but its still a process you can safely carry out in a study, workshop or spare bedroom.

With resin the first thing you do is don your nitrile gloves, eye protectors and face mask. Resins are not nice chemicals to get on your skin, and certainly not in your eyes or mouth. This comes in STL stereolithography format, which has been the industry standard for many years.

Thingiverse is a huge database of free, user-uploaded STL models where you can find everything imaginable, including a huge variety of gaming miniatures, components and scenery. There are even sites letting you design your own 28mm models, like HeroForgebut you will have to pay for the STL files. For my first print I settled on a 3D selfie — a head scan of me I had knocking around my own archives.

I imported this into the supplied software, auto-generated some supports which cradle overhangs in your model to stop any drooping or breaking duriong the print processused the default settings and hit Slice.

Five minutes later and I was plugging in the USB, selecting my model on the screen and hitting Print. And away it went. About 4 hours later, the Photon gave a confirmatory beep or two and my print was done. Again, this means handling pretty unpleasant chemicals and yet more noxious vapours. I tend to have two or three bottles of isopropyl for this. I use this to do a preliminary rinse or two to get the worst of the resin off the build plate and models, flushing it into a receptacle which is then poured back into the bottle.

About Anycubic

Only then do I remove the model using a sharp metal scraper form a DIY store the included plastic one is a bit crap, especially for models more tenaciously stuck to the build plate. Once your model is free you can give the build plate a final wipe down with a paper towel and some clean iso, reattach it to the system and move onto the final stages of post-processing.

LCD printers work by using UV to cure photoreactive resin, so to fully cure your models you need to give it more UV exposure. I usually cure stuff for about 10 minutes or so, and only then remove the supports, which are pretty brittle by this point and usually break away easily. A lot of the plastics used in FDM printers these days will break down pretty efficiently. In fact if you want to print things for outdoors use, you have to use more specialised materials.Up until very recently, consumer-level stereolithography printers were essentially the unicorns of the 3D-printing world.

For years, there were only a few of them for sale to consumers, and they were typically far too expensive for most 3D-printing enthusiasts to afford.

Over the course of the past year or so, resin-based printers have begun to trickle into the consumer market with increasing frequency — and that includes a few highly affordable options.

Case in point? But can a cheap printer really compare to industry standouts like Ultimaker, Lulzbot, and Formlabs? We took one for a spin to find out. The Anycubic Photon won our award for the best products of the year. Make sure and check out all our other selections for Best Products of There are a few things that make this printer stand out from the rest of the pack.

This means that instead of squirting plastic filament through a hot nozzle to create objects, it shines UV light into a vat full of photoreactive resin to cure each layer. Unlike most consumer 3D printers, the Photon is roughly the size of two shoeboxes sandwiched together, and can therefore fit comfortably on your desktop. To top it all off, the Photon also comes equipped with a 2. The printer comes all but fully assembled, so getting it ready for your first print is a breeze.

To make sure you set the Z-axis home point at the correct height, Anycubic prompts you to place a piece of printer paper on the LCD screen, then lower the build plate until you feel resistance when you move the paper. Nothing about it feels cheap.

The design, however, is fairly basic. Aside from the touchscreen interface, the printer lacks many of the thoughtful design elements that are common on higher-end machines.

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This means that instead of flashing a laser dot into the resin and moving it around to trace the shape of each layer, the printer uses an LCD screen to cure an entire layer at once.

All things considered, this printer is very well-built, but lacking slightly in terms of design — at least from an engineering and performance perspective. Still, this is a helluva lot of printer for the price. If you can use a smartphone, you can use this printer.It was also important to us that all the individual parts required for the Shield can be found on the internet.

COVID is a virus that is transmitted by droplet infection. This can be not only through the respiratory tract, but also through the mucous membranes. It is therefore very important to protect the eyes as well.

The printed frame was created and constructed with the support of our great friend Erik Plischkean mechanical engineer from Germany. Erik was able to implement all of our requirements in the best possible way and we are extremely grateful for his help and support! We recommend using a foil with a thickness of 0. The 4-way perforation is used for this more Details in the Video.

In this way we avoid that the sign has to be measured or processed with special tools. Tapes that are already pre-punched or closed tapes can be used. The closed bands can be cut horizontally with scissors and then be used.

The most amazing things on our face-shield are the hooks, that were designed by Erik.

Anycubic Photon 3D printer review

Despite maintaining the hole size, he was able to produce an incredible stability of the foil. We've designed 2 models. It has the best specifications and design. But also, we made an "SLIM" version, that is also called like this. The "SLIM" version has less design and features.

We cordially invite all of our customers, friends and supporters to print this face shield for protection. These can be used by yourself or distributed to the staff in the first line, e. Download them now: Click here. Close menu.

anycubic photon first print

Photon Series. Mega Series. UV Resin. About Anycubic. Affiliate Program Reseller Program. Privacy Policy.After first bottle of resin I have some points about failed prints for you. So how can your print fail and how to solve the problem. It appears usually after failed print. Your calibration is off a bit and your first layer is not aligned correctly and it peels off. Your calibration can become disaligned usually then buildplate is not thightened enough and you are removing item from it, or maybe there is a piece of cured resin on the bottom of your vat from previous fail, that you did not scoop out.

anycubic photon first print

Recalibrate and try again. Also clean your vat and recalibrate after each failed print. In DLP printing your print is holding on the top of buildplate by suction force. This force is usually enough to hold your print up.

But if total area of layer printed is bigger than area of first layer, it can happen, that this suction on the bottom vat is stronger and your print will get torn off. From now last layer wil be cured again an again. If you have long straight smooth surfaces and you do not want lines on them, print them perpendicular to buildplate. In this case supports should be sturdy enough to hold your print.

anycubic photon first print

Add more suppports, use some heavy supports if there is space where they can be easily removed. This should result in part being not printed at all and its projection stuck on bottom of vat, but sometimes printer manage to glue part back to model and separate it.

Always support overhangs, especially "islands". For number 2, I found that the easiest solution is to add a single-layer "raft". I took the 20mm test cube and resized it to 0. Never had anything fall off since I have this in every print.

Much easier to remove than the normal raft and uses less resin, too. To remove the print from the build plate, slide a gloved!! Probably needs an extended bottom exposure time as it's just one layer. I had mine quite high 90 already and never tested lowering it. You may have covered this already and I'm just not understanding, so please let me know if you've already gone over this. I've been using my Photon for only a few days, first couple of prints with the included green resin the rest print and a small "cute dragon" I downloaded from here worked fantastically.

I drained the resin back into the tank and switched to Monoprice Rapid grey as I plan to use it mostly for tabletop miniature parts. The first print a Space Marine doing a dab, downloaded from here went really well.

Since then I've not been able to make anything print properly. I tried to print a couple of tanks for Battletech Manticore and Schrek, both also from here both with and without supports; the tank bodies all fell off the platform, and the turrets without supports did as well.

The turrets with supports hung on but were ribbed by I assume the cured portions on the tanks floating in the resin.

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I cleaned the resin out of the vat, scraped and cleaned the vat with IPA and the included black plastic scraper and let the whole thing dry.

Reassembled and refilled with the same Monoprice Rapid grey and tried a mech model Nightstar found on here. Both times it has come out half formed, like the model gets to the knees of the mech and just stops.

I've included attached pictures - one shows the build plate with the half-finished model, the other is the scrap from the bottom of the vat. Any advice? Am I calibrated wrong, or is something else going on? All models were printed with medium supports and. Any help would vee greatly appreciated! Hello, I would like to ask you about the problem number 1.

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